If we had been put off by the crowds and walked away I might never have wanted to go back. Instead I spent the best value $100 of the trip.
Kendra, her friend Mackenzie and I went for a one hour paddle around the lake. There was not a breath of wind and only a gentle flow from the far end towards the river outlet behind us. Although there were quite a few other canoes on the lake everyone seemed to be looking for some form of solitude and we all stayed some distance for each other.
Through the trees on the lakeside we could see people walking or riding horses on the tracks and there were several rockclimbers on the faces at the far end of the lake.
It seemed that the mountains and the lake had enough space for everyone.
So next time we need to come in an off season. Perhaps a night in the fancy hotel……